DAILY DINNERS

Bring the stock to a simmer, add the mushrooms and leave them to soak and swell up. Cook the pheasant in some olive oil in a casserole until it is browned all over, then add the pancetta and brown, stirring all the time. Add the shallots and stir for a minute, then add the bay leaf. Pour in the white wine and bubble for a minute. Add the stock and the mushrooms, season well and bring to a simmer. Put the lid on the pan, making sure it fits tightly, and cook gently for 1 hour until the meat starts to fall off the bones.

Lift the pheasant out (and fish out the bay leaf), cool a little and then strip the meat off the bones and tear it into pieces. Simmer the stock until it thickens a little and then add back the pheasant, parsley and a squeeze of lemon. Toss the tagliatelle with the pheasant ragu and scatter with the parmesan to serve.