DAILY DINNERS

Season the duck on both sides with a teaspoon of herbes de Provence, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, and set aside for 30 minutes.

Put a large sauté pan on a medium heat with three tablespoons of oil, lemon peel, oregano, bay leaves and two-thirds of a teaspoon of salt. Fry gently for eight minutes, stirring often, until golden, then turn up the heat to medium-high, add the onion, fennel and peppers, and cook gently, stirring often, for 20 minutes, until softened (turn down the heat if the vegetables start colouring too much). Stir in the tomato puree, tomatoes, olives, the remaining lemon juice and herbes de Provence, and set aside.

Lay the duck breasts skin side down in a cold non-stick pan, put on a medium heat and, as the heat builds up, gently fry for 10-12 minutes. Spoon off any fat as it renders (save it for roast potatoes) and press down on the breasts every now and then, so the skin crisps to an even, deep golden brown. Turn the heat to high, flip over the breasts and cook for two to three minutes on the flesh side, moving it as you go, so it all gets some colour. Transfer to a board, rest for 15 minutes, then cut into 1.5cm-thick slices.

Stir the tarragon and chives into the cooked vegetables, transfer to a large platter and drizzle over the remaining three tablespoons of oil. Discard the duck’s resting juices and gently mix the duck slices with the vegetables, making sure some of the meat is visible. Season with a little salt and pepper, scatter over the remaining herbs and serve with the lemon wedges squeezed over the top.