DAILY DINNERS

Heat the oven to 180C/ 160C Fan/ Gas 4. Cut the ends from the potatoes and keep. Cut the peel and 1cm flesh from the potatoes, leaving blocky barrels of potato behind (you need 500g of skins today, leaving you 500g potato for the next day). On a shallow baking tray, massage the skins and potato ends with the oil, salt and thyme sprigs. Roast for 30 mins, turning half way through, until tender and starting to crisp. Set aside until later.

Simmer the salad onion with the vinegar until reduced to 1 tsp or so. Strain the vinegar into the butter (keep the onion), add the crab and some seasoning and mash well. Chill until needed.

Heat the grill to high - making sure it's really hot before you cook the fish. Slash the skin of each fillet three times and season. Put the potatoes under the grill for 2 mins or until hot and starting to crisp again, then lay the fish fillets on top. (if your grill doesn't go very high, fry your fillets, skin-side down, in a non-stick frying pan to crisp it up before putting them on top of your potatoes.) Pour olive oil over the fish, and grill for 4 mins or until opaque with the skin crisping.

Dollop 14 of the crab butter onto each fillet, then grill for 1 min until the butter begins to melt. Using a fish slice, transfer the fish to warmed plates to serve, with the potato skins, a few thyme leaves and use the leftover steeped onion to pour over some halved cherry tomatoes, charred briefly in a frying pan and some salad leaves.