DAILY DINNERS

Put the cream cheese into a mixing bowl with the zest of 1 lemon and the juice from half, and mix together. Mix in most of the chopped chives, then have a taste and add a pinch of salt & pepper. Add more lemon juice if needed. Flake in the trout, removing any skin and bones, then use a spatula to fold the mixture together gently so you have smaller bits and nice chunks. Decant into several little bowls or cups (or one single dish), then drizzle over a little oil and sprinkle over a few more chopped chives. Cover with cling film and put into the fridge to chill.

When you're nearly ready to eat, preheat the oven to 240C/ Fan 220C/ Gas 9 while you make your Yorkshire pudding batter. In a mini muffin tin, pour a little thimble of vegetable oil into the 16 compartments of the tin, so you have a thin layer covering the bottom of each. Pop the tray on to the top shelf in the hot oven for around 10 - 15 mins, so the oil gets so hot that it smokes. While you're doing that, aggressively beat the eggs, flour, milk and a pinch of salt and pepper together, either by hand or in a food processor, until light and smooth. Transfer the mixture to a jug.

Carefully take the tray out of the oven and quickly and confidently pour the batter into the hot tin so it nearly fills each well. Return the tray to the top shelf of the oven to cook around 10 -12 minutes, or until the Yorkies are puffed up and golden. Whatever you do, don't open the oven door! Get your cups of potted fish out of the fridge and serve on a board with those sizzling hot Yorkies and some lemon wedges.