DAILY DINNERS

Set the oven to 180C350F/gas mark 4. Scrub, but don’t peel, the potatoes. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer until tender. Drain and leave to cool. Cook the beans in fast-boiling, salted water until done, but still firm – they will continue cooking in the oven. Drain, then chop into small, rough pieces – I used scissors.

Once the potatoes are cooled enough to handle, peel them, then mash or pass them through a ricer. Mix the mash with the beans, cheese, eggs, salt, pepper and grating of nutmeg or pinch of oregano, if you are using it.

Oil the cake tin, then dust it with fine breadcrumbs. Scrape the mixture into the tin, level out the top, sprinkle with more breadcrumbs and zigzag with olive oil. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, by which time the bake should be slightly puffed up and golden on top.

Let the bake cool for 20 minutes before running a blade around the edge and then turning it out on to a plate. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serve with orange and fennel salad: using a sharp knife peel and segment the oranges and discard the membranes, catching the juice.

Trim the fennel of its fingers and tough outer layers and keep the fronds. Very thinly slice the fennel. Separate the chicory into leaves and toss the fennel and chicory with 2 tbsp of the reserved orange juice. Chill until needed.

For the dressing, whisk 2 tbsp of the remaining orange juice with the oil and lemon juice. Season. Scatter the salad with the chives and serve with the dressing in a jug.