DAILY DINNERS

First, make the malfatti. Put the ricotta, egg yolks, flour, parsley and 40g Parmesan in a bowl. Add the lemon zest, nutmeg, two good pinches each of salt and black pepper, and mix.

Dust a baking tray with semolina flour. Use a teaspoon to scoop up some ricotta mix and another to help you shape it into an oval. You don’t need to be too precise. Scrape the dumpling on to the semolina and roll it to the other end of the tray. Repeat until you’ve used up all the mixture – you should have around 20 malfatti. Add a dusting of semolina over them, cover and chill in the fridge for an hour.

Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth, cut away woody bits at the base and tear large ones so they are a similar size.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Drop the malfatti in and cook for two to three minutes (they are done when they float). Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Place a frying pan over a high heat. Add two-thirds of the butter and, when it’s frothing, add the mushrooms, sage and a pinch of salt and pepper. When the mushrooms release their juices, add the remaining butter, lemon juice and half a ladle of malfatti cooking water.

Shake the pan, then add the malfatti. Roll them around a bit to warm, then serve with the mushrooms spooned on top and the remaining Parmesan.